Tuesday, 7 September 2010

From a library in the frozen north…

I'm back in Warsaw, after a quick working week in Prague. This was the trip I was always planning to take, though the excessive back-and-forth-ness has left me feeling two things: first, that I live rather more here than there at the moment, which doesn't distress me, as I continue to like this city; and, second, that three eight-hour train journeys in the space of seven days are too much, even for someone who loves movement as much as I do.

Since I'm not confined to the weekend, I've had a chance to experience the day-to-day-ness of working in Warsaw, which for me means finding a good library. I wish I was the sort of person who could read and write texts more complicated than email effectively against the backdrop of café-noise, or that I could discipline myself to work at home, but after much trial and error I've accepted that libraries just work better for me. As a result, I have quite a collection of international library cards, the newest of which I acquired yesterday:

My endeavors to photograph it haven't gone too well – it's sort of come out all blurry – but I love this photograph. The lighting is almost painterly. It was taken by a Polish undergrad-type manning the registration desk at the University of Warsaw Library, which is equipped for this purpose with a light not dissimilar to those I encountered at the London College of Fashion. The library is located off Nowý Swiat – I know which street to turn down thanks to an enormous statues of Copernicus conveniently located at the intersection. The full name of the library is Biblioteka Uniwersytecka w Warszawie, which offers a fascinating glimpse of the differences between Czech and Polish, a topic currently occupying much of my attention. In Czech, the word knihovna is used for library, which can create some confusion since the word for bookshelf is also knihovna. You can alleviate this problem by using the diminutive form to distinguish between them. The Poles have avoided this altogether by using the Latinate biblioteka. This is fascinating to me, having studied the modernization of Czech in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, when there was much squabbling among grammarians about the appropriate sources of new words. The attitude that was eventually adopted was quite conservative – loanwords should come, if at all possible, from other Slavic languages or be created from Czech themselves. Thus, Czechs can borrow a kniha (book) from a knihovna, while speakers of Polish, which seems not to have had such a conservative loanward policy, use a biblioteka, despite the fact that the Polish word for book is książka. Linguistic analysis aside, I like this library, which looks like this:

On the ground floor there's a sort of atrium thing that contains Coffee Heaven – Poland's answer to Starbucks – as well as used book kiosks and a poster shop I want to visit today. Within the library itself, I have found a wonderful book by Eva Hoffman called Exit into History, which documents her travels through post-Communist countries in the early 1990s. It's very personal with lots of material from interviews, as well as her own reactions to her experience, which makes it incredibly insightful and unpretentious and – from my point of view – very helpful. She also talks about the frustration of being unable to use Polish in Czechoslovakia very effectively, a situation I am now experiencing in reverse. I feel an overwhelming desire to wear a badge, like those sported by Costa Coffee baristas in London – festooned with little flags conveying the information that I am able to function reasonably adequately in more than one language. It is a bizarre situation to be able to read, and even understand, (though as always, my language skills are better in written form) while being unable to produce anything. I feel profoundly guilty that I can't answer an old lady's question about which bus stop is next, even though I know that's what she's asking. I also know that this response, as I told Mr P (in an extremely rare low moment of his own last week), is irrational, as there is no way to master a complex language within one week of arriving somewhere, even if one has a good working grasp of a related language. At least the Poles are nice about it, generally. Yesterday a research student asked me to take part in her study and when I told her I couldn't speak Polish she still gave one of the cookies she'd brought along as thank yous to participants. Bless.

In other news, it's freezing here! The freezing starting on Monday, but before that it was quite beautiful, as in this picture that I have chosen to leave you with, taken at a concert of Chopin music in Lazienki Park.

(And yes, that's a stature of Chopin looking on…apologies to random girl on the right. I really need some photo editing software of greater sophistication than Paint.)

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